De"mist"ifying Japanese and Korean Skincare Rituals
Despite the ebbs and flows of socioeconomic change, the beauty industry remains resilient. Unlike most other industries, beauty and wellness sales continue to grow and "glow" in the face of economic downturns. North Asia has emerged as a global powerhouse in the beauty industry thanks to its rich history of cultural practices and ingrained emphasis on skincare. With rising trends like the "glass skin" look, Asian beauty products have dramatically increased in demand: China, Japan, and Korea dominate the global beauty market with over 50% of the market share in 2022. (Ghosh)
In particular, K-Beauty products have surged over recent years, standing at $12.1 bn(2022) in beauty and personal care. Similarly, the Japanese beauty industry holds a market value of $35 billion in 2019, ranking third globally in the cosmetics and personal care products sector. With the aid of e-commerce and digital marketing, GlobalData projects that between 2022 and 2027, the Asia Pacific health and beauty market will expand at a CAGR of 4.7%. (Ghosh)
The booming industry's success is evident - Korean and Japanese women (and men!) are renowned for their excellent skin, and the secret lies in skincare. Even K-pop and J-pop idols credit their clear, radiant faces to popular Asian brands like Shiseido and Dr. Jart. There is no better way to learn about the secret to glowing skin and the striking differences between two powerhouse skincare industries than from the experts: Chizu Saeki and Charlotte Cho.
"J-Beauty" and its Origin
Throughout history, the Japanese have been renowned for their personal hygiene and skincare practices, dating back to the geisha era. Their approach to skincare is fresh and simplistic, aligning with the essence of minimalism (think Marie Kondo!). In her book The Japanese Skincare Evolution, Chizu Saeki, a skincare icon and former top-selling beauty consultant for brands like Guerlain and Parfums Christian Dior, shares invaluable beauty tips and extensive research on achieving the most beautiful skin at any age (Saeki).
Saeki's philosophy emphasizes quality over quantity, promoting simple and affordable methods that can easily be practiced at home. Unlike current beauty trends that advocate for intricate routines, Saeki advises having the courage to cut back on cosmetics. She believes using too many lavish products can be detrimental, leading to "overfeeding" the skin and potentially causing harm rather than benefit.
"Being alive, skin is equipped with a self-cleansing mechanism, and pampering it too much only weakens that ability." -Chizu Saeki
Similar to how our bodies need rest and recovery, Saeki recommends "skin-fasting." The essence of this method could not get any simpler: do nothing. However, it does not mean neglecting care for your skin. Instead, Saeki advises leaving one day per week to do nothing but rinse your face. This practice is meant to refresh and revitalize the skin, enhancing its natural vitality and resilience.
For skincare enthusiasts on a budget, Saeki's methods are highly affordable. From expensive treatments like spas and facials to sheet masks and even face lifts, Saeki shares DIY-at-home alternatives that are supposedly just as effective. "Chizu Saeki's original lotion mask" consists of cotton skincare pads dampened with water and lotion.
One unique aspect Saeki emphasizes is the power of intention and senses concerning beauty. She urges readers to use an enthusiastic approach to set positive intentions during their skincare routine. "urging your brown spots to disappear or your cheeks not to sag will make a much greater difference than blindly spending a fortune on cosmetics."
The K-Beauty Regimen
In stark contrast to J-Beauty's minimalistic approach, the Korean skincare routine is renowned for its meticulous 10-step regimen, which Charlotte Cho unveils in her book The Little Book of Skin Care: Korean Beauty Secrets for Healthy, Glowing Skin. Cho is best known as the founder of Soko Glam and her significant contribution to bringing K-Beauty to the Western market. Cho obtains a unique perspective on skincare and shares her journey as an American-born Korean who enters the world of K-Beauty in her late teen years. Cho reveals that both men and women in Korean culture take pride in taking extra care of their skin. Wildly contrasting J-Beauty's principles, it isn't uncommon for Koreans to store multiple and various skincare products in their homes. Even men will often always carry a bottle of sunscreen, demonstrating the cultural emphasis on caring for your skin. (Cho)
The Korean skincare industry is always taking advantage of the developing market and innovating new products with beautiful packaging. Cho emphasizes the importance of aesthetics, as Koreans love "cute." Not only are K-beauty products visually appealing, they are also highly effective.
"If it makes you smile, you're more likely to use it." -Charlotte Cho
In contrast to Japanese brands known for their sleek and modern design (e.g., Shiseido and SK-II), Korean beauty products often feature vibrant colors and playful cartoon drawings (e.g., Skinfood).
While Koreans typically invest more in products than their Japanese or American counterparts, Cho argues that their routine could be more manageable than it may initially appear. "Each product enters the rotation for a specific purpose." She explains, "Some you might even use only once a month or during a certain season." Like Chizu Saeki, Cho agrees that quality is still more important than quantity. "It's all about having the right products in the right order."
The10-Step Korean Skincare Routine
Cho breaks down the ten infamous steps to radiant Korean skin. Each step is supported with product recommendations for different skin types, illustrations, and thorough explanations of their purpose.
1. Makeup Remover and Oil Cleanser
2. Water-Based Cleanser(Remove impurities)
3. Exfoliator(For blackheads and dead skin)
4. Toner(Resets P.H. and hydrates)
5. Essence(Nourishes and renews your skin)
6. Ampoules(Boosters/Serums that target skin concerns)
7. Sheet Mask(Many types dedicated to skin needs)
8. Eye Cream(For dark circles and puffiness)
9. Moisturizer(Hydration)
10. SPF!
Cho emphasizes that these ten steps can be followed sparingly. "No skincare routine is one-size-fits-all, nor is there a guarantee that what gives you great results now will work just as well a year from now." For this reason, Cho firmly believes that "change is good" in skincare. "You wouldn't want to wear the same outfit daily, so why stick to the same skincare?" The author also explains that products should be tailored to each skin type. For example, people with dry skin might use moisturizers with thicker cream consistency, while oily skin types can use water-based gels or emulsions.
If there's one tip that Saeki and Cho equally preach, it's SPF. Both experts agree that sun damage is one of the worst things you can do to your skin. According to Cho, UV rays can act like "laser beams" that damage cellular DNA and collagen fibers(proteins that give structure to the skin), contributing to dark spots, accelerating aging, and the risk of cancer. If there's anything we can take away–wear your sunscreen.
Chaeki and Cho have achieved iconic status in the skincare industry with goddess-like complexions despite their differing approaches. Their different methods reveal no definite one-size-fits-all solution for our skin. Whether minimalistic or extensive, skincare enthusiasts should find their perfect balance, utilizing quality products suitable for their skin types. Beyond routine and products, skincare is about personal care. By nurturing a deeper connection with our skin and overall health, we can truly embody the essence of beauty. Taking care of our skin becomes an expression of self-love, fostering a positive relationship with ourselves and promoting a sense of inner well-being that radiates outward.
Citations:
Cho, Charlotte. The Little Book of Skin Care: Korean Beauty Secrets for Healthy, Glowing Skin. William Morrow, 2015.
Ghosh, Sayan. “From J- to K-Beauty - What Has Asia’s Beauty Industry to Offer?” AsiaFundManagers.Com, 5 July 2023, www.asiafundmanagers.com/us/from-j-to-k-beauty-what-has-asias-beauty-industry-to-offer/.
Saeki, Chizu. Japanese Skincare Revolution, the: How to Have the Most Beautiful Skin of Your Life - at Any Age. Kodansha America, Inc, 2012.
